Interview with Zhang Jianfei, Dean of Textile Institute of Tianjin Polytechnic University

At present, new fiber has gradually become the focus of the company's future development. In order to enable enterprises to more fully understand the research and development of new fiber in China, the reporter of "Textile and Apparel Weekly" specially interviewed Zhang Jianfei, dean of the Textile Institute of Tianjin Polytechnic University, and asked him to talk about the current status and future development trend of China's new fiber development.

New types of fibers are emerging

"Textile and Apparel Weekly": What is the current development status of China's textile new fiber?

Zhang Jianfei: In recent years, various types of new types of recycled fibers have emerged one after another. The newly-recognized new types of regenerated fibers include regenerated cellulose fibers such as Tencel fiber, Modal fiber, and bamboo pulp fiber, and regenerated protein fibers such as soybean protein fiber and milk fiber.

In addition to vigorously developing recycled fiber, the textile industry is also actively expanding the range of natural fibers. Today, natural fibers are no longer confined to traditional cotton, hemp, silk, and wool, and many natural biomaterials may be used as a source of fiber. Fibers derived from plant leaves such as pineapple leaf fiber and brown leaf fiber have been developed in the industry, such as bamboo fiber, banana tree bast fiber, cotton stalk bast fiber, mulberry fiber and other fibers derived from plant stalks, and coconut-like Fibers such as fibers taken from fruits. In addition to plant-derived fibers, animal-derived chitin fibers are also a new type of recycled fiber currently being studied in the textile industry. Recently, some research institutes are trying to develop lotus fiber, others want to use cattail as a fiber material, and even researchers are exploring the preparation of puerarin fiber from Pueraria slag.

At present, Tencel fiber, Modal fiber, bamboo pulp fiber, soybean protein fiber, milk fiber and other relatively familiar ones of these new types of recycled fiber have already achieved industrial production, and already have products entering the market. Tencel fiber, Modal fiber and bamboo pulp fiber are all cellulose fibers in nature, but differ in source and production process.

Textile and Apparel Weekly: What is the application of new fiber?

Zhang Jianfei: The current new fiber is mainly used in clothing, focusing on providing consumers with more comfortable and beautiful high-end clothing. In addition, the development of functional textiles is also one of the important applications of new fibers, such as fire protection, bulletproof, stab-resistant, radiation-proof, anti-pollution and other protective clothing. It should be pointed out that the realization of the comfort or protection of the garment is not only related to the fiber material used, but also closely related to the fiber structure and subsequent dyeing and finishing. The functional finishing of textiles is also an important way to achieve textile functions.

In addition, in the future, the proportion of new fiber applications in the industry will increase. For example, natural fiber composite materials are a hot spot in current research.

The future will develop in three directions

"Textile and Apparel Weekly": What are the characteristics of the development of China's textile new fiber?

Zhang Jianfei: In terms of synthetic fiber, although China has achieved certain results, compared with developed countries such as the United States and Japan, there is still a big gap, so differentiated fibers, super-simulated fibers, functional fibers and high performance should be accelerated. The pace of industrialization of fiber research and development. Through the molecular structure modification, blending, special-shaped, ultra-fine, composite and other technologies, improve the comprehensive performance of the fiber, and launch new products with independent intellectual property rights.

In recent years, the development of recycled fiber in China is in the ascendant and shows a good momentum of development. Bamboo pulp fiber and soybean protein fiber are two new types of recycled fiber that are currently developing in China.

Natural fiber has always been our country's strength. In recent years, as cotton prices continue to rise, hemp fiber has become a hot spot in the development of natural cellulose fibers. Jute, hemp and apocynum are currently the focus of the industry and researchers. Rabbit hair in natural protein fiber has recently attracted new attention.

Although the application of natural fiber has a long history in China, it is not so easy to make the natural fiber industry really good. Because compared with chemical fiber, the industrial chain of natural fiber, from planting or breeding to the final fiber processing, spans three major industries, involving agriculture, commerce, textile and many other fields. To truly realize the expansion of China's natural fiber industry, we must explore new models.

"Textile and Apparel Weekly": In what direction will textile new fiber develop in the future?

Zhang Jianfei: In the future, new fibers will develop in three directions. First, the source is diversified. In the coming period, the source of textile fibers will be the coexistence and competition of synthetic fibers, recycled fibers and natural fibers. Synthetic and recycled fibers will continue to be introduced in new varieties, and natural fibers will also expand into new sources.

The second is to pay attention to functionality. Whether it is taking textiles or industrial textiles, functionality is an important direction for future development. For fibers used as raw materials for textiles, high-performance fibers, functional fibers and smart fibers are important directions for their development.

The third is to highlight the ecological. This includes clean production of the fiber preparation process, biodegradability of the fibers themselves, and recycling of waste. The development of recycled fiber best reflects people's attention to the clean production of fiber preparation process. From the traditional viscose process to solvent spinning, from the use of NMMO to the exploration of ionic liquids as solvents, the development direction of achieving clean production is fully reflected.

There are advantages to developing a new fiber industry

"Textile and Apparel Weekly": Compared with foreign countries, what are the advantages and disadvantages of China in the research and development of new fibers?

Zhang Jianfei: The advantages are mainly reflected in the following three aspects.

The first is the resource advantage. We have always believed that China has a resource advantage in the development of new fibers, but with the depletion of petroleum resources, this advantage is only reflected in recycled fiber and natural fiber. The area of ​​cultivated land and pastures in China is limited, and the production of cotton and wool cannot be increased indefinitely. Therefore, it is necessary to fully develop China's relatively abundant animal and plant resources and actively seek new sources of fiber raw materials.

The second is the industrial advantage. China is currently an important textile exporter, with a full range of fiber production and textile processing enterprises, and has cultivated many large-scale industrial clusters. Although the textile powers such as the United States, Japan, the United Kingdom, and Germany are strong in research and development and research and development, there are relatively few manufacturers in these countries, especially those in textile processing.

The third is the advantage of human resources. The advantage of human resources does not only mean that the labor cost in China is low, but more importantly, it is reflected in a considerable number of professional and technical personnel with good professional training. China has a number of textile colleges and universities such as Donghua University and Tianjin Polytechnic University. These textile universities are the talent training bases of China's textile industry, providing a large number of talents for the development of China's textile industry. At the same time, these universities are also innovative bases for new fiber research and development.

Our disadvantages in the research and development of new fibers are mainly due to the lack of investment in new product research and the low conversion rate of new products in universities. This requires us to strengthen the cooperation between industry, universities and research institutes to build our new fiber brand in China.

Textile and Apparel Weekly: What issues do companies need to pay attention to when developing and applying new fibers?

Zhang Jianfei: First, we must pay attention to innovation. The development of new fibers should work hard on product performance and production processes, and have their own "hard things." “New bottled old wine”, hype concept, over-packaging, is not an innovation. The original innovation is more difficult, and it is very valuable to introduce one or several new elements in the product structure and production process. After digesting and absorbing other people's things, there are new improvements on this basis. This is also possible. But you must not simply carry out the "cottage", which can only be achieved for a while, without long-term development.

Second, we must force impetuousness. It's really hard to develop a new product, but you can't over-package new products. To describe your own products as "all over the disease", flickering consumers, and finally can only smash their own brands.

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